Lhotse Middle

Lhotse Middle is a subsidiary peak to Lhotse, and was the final eight-thousander to be summited. It is a sharp, jagged peak rising 8,410 metres (27,590 ft) high, and has been described as the most difficult peak over eight thousand meters to climb.

Lhotse Middle
Highest point
Elevation8,410 m (27,590 ft)
Prominence60 m (200 ft)
Isolation0.43 km (0.27 mi)
Parent peakLhotse
Coordinates27°57′39.21″N 86°56′20.08″E / 27.9608917°N 86.9389111°ECoordinates: 27°57′39.21″N 86°56′20.08″E / 27.9608917°N 86.9389111°E
Geography
LocationLhotse, Khumbu, Nepal
Lhotse, Tibet Autonomous Region, China
Parent rangeHimalayas
Climbing
First ascentMay 23, 2001
Easiest routeSnow/rock climb

First ascent

Lhotse Middle was first climbed in 2001 by three groups of Russian climbers.[1] At the time, it was the last unclimbed named eight-thousand-metre summit.[2] Several members of the 2001 expedition had attempted to reach the summit in 1997, but bad weather forced them to abandon the attempt, and one climber was killed during the descent.[3]

References

  1. ^ Koshelenko, Yuri (2002). "Unraveling the Mystery of Lhotse Middle". American Alpine Journal. American Alpine Club. 44 (76): 166. Retrieved 10 April 2016.
  2. ^ "First ascent on Lhotse Middle". K2 News. Retrieved 2009-12-20.
  3. ^ "First ascent of Lhotse Middle (with route map)". russianclimb.com. Retrieved 2009-12-20.
Anna Czerwińska

Anna Czerwińska (born July 10, 1949 in Warsaw) is a Polish mountaineer, known for being the oldest woman to Summit Mount Everest (at the time) at the age of 50 (born 7/10/49 climbed Everest from the Nepal side on 5/22/2000). She has also published several books about mountaineering.

The first Polish woman to reach the Seven Summits. She is D.S. (Pharmacy) but she left medicine science for the mountains and now is a business woman. She owns a purchasing firm. She has been climbing for 33 years, usually in all-women teams. In summer 1977 with Krystyna Palmowska she climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn. This was the first time women climbed such a difficult wall.

In 1978 with Krystyna Palmowska, Wanda Rutkiewicz and Irena Kesa she climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn in winter. Again they were the first women to succeed and it created a sensation in the European mountaineering world. Anna Czerwińska was a member of the Polish Gasherbrums Expedition in 1975. In 1979 with Krystyna Palmowska they climbed a new route, Rakaposhi (7788 m), in Pakistan. On June 30, 1983 they both climbed Broad Peak, Rocky Summit - Czerwińska, Main, Snowy Summit 8047 meters - Palmowska). It was only a two women expedition. Czerwińska tried to reach the top of K2 three times: in 1982, 1984 and 1986, the last time she was a witness to tragedy when 13 climbers died on the mountain. On July 15, 1985 she was on the summit of Nanga Parbat with Wanda Rutkiewicz and Krystyna Palmowska - the first women team on the top without support of men. She tried two times to climb Kanchenjunga: in 1980 and in 1990 as a leader of the expedition.

She led the Makalu Expedition in 1988 and was also a member of the Makalu Expedition in the winter of 1990. For five years she “collected” the highest summits of the continents: Aconcagua (South America) and Kilimanjaro (Africa) in 1995 r.; Mount McKinley (North America), Elbrus (Europe) and Mount Kosciuszko (Australia) in 1996 r.; Mount Vinson (Antarctica) in 1998 r.; Carstensz Pyramid (Australia with Oceania) in 1999 r.; Mount Everest (Asia) 5/22/2000. On 10/6/00 she climbed Shishapangma (unclear if the Central or Main Summit). She is the author or coauthor of many books about climbing on Matterhorn, Gasherbrum, Broad Peak, Nanga Parbat, K2. This December she will publish her new book about the 7 Summits. She is also the oldest woman to summit Mount Everest. On May 21, 2001 Anna summitted Lhotse, then Cho Oyu on September 25, 2001.

Eight-thousander

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation or UIAA recognise eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. However, there is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and since 2012 the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was Italian Reinhold Messner in 1986, who completed the feat without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Spaniard Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen; in 2011 Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. From 1950–1964, all eight-thousanders were summited. As of May 2019, K2 remains the only eight-thousander not summited in a Winter ascent.

Lhotse

Lhotse (Nepali: ल्होत्से L'hōtsē [loːtsi]; Tibetan: ལྷོ་རྩེ, lho rtse) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif, Lhotse is connected to the latter peak via the South Col. Lhotse means “South Peak” in Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, the mountain comprises the smaller peaks Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit is on the border between Tibet of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit

The list consists of people who reached the summit of Mount Everest more than once. By 2013, 6,871 summits have been recorded by 4,042 different people. Despite two hard years of disaster (2014 and 2015), by the end of 2016 there were 7,646 summits by 4,469 people. In 2018 about 800 people summited, breaking the record for most in one year compared to 2013, in which 667 summited Mount Everest.Note all information may not be completed/updated, it can take months and even years to update summit counts as confirmed by sources

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