Jodhpurs

Jodhpurs, also called breeches (English riding pants) in their modern form, are tight-fitting trousers that reach to the ankle, where they end in a snug cuff, and are worn primarily for horse riding. The term is also used as slang for a type of short riding boot, also called a paddock boot or a jodhpur boot, because they are worn with jodhpurs.

Originally, jodhpurs were snug-fitting from just below the knee to the ankle, and were flared at the hip to allow ease for sitting in the saddle. Modern jodhpurs are made with stretch fabric and are tight fitting throughout. They are supportive and flexible.[1]

Horse riding in coca cola arena - melbourne show 2005
A horse show competitor wearing contemporary stretch-fabric jodhpurs

History

MarwariHorseRajasthan
Marwari horse in Rajasthan. Note the traditional long riding trousers, tight around the calf, reaching to Mojari slippers.

Jodhpurs were adapted from traditional clothing of the Indian subcontinent[2] as long trousers, reaching to the ankle, snug from the calf to the ankle, with reinforced fabric protecting the inner calf and knee from rubbing. The thighs and hips were flared, a traditional South Asian style that allowed free movement of the hip and thigh while riding.

The jodhpurs were adapted from an ancient style of Indian trouser called the Churidar, which is tight around the calf and loose at the hips. It is still worn at traditional Jodhpury weddings.[3] This is a special traditional style of clothing in Northern India, especially in what is today the modern state of Rajasthan. Its capital is Jaipur. Sir Pratap Singh, a younger son of the Maharaja of Jodhpur, popularised in England the style of riding-trousers worn in Jodhpur, a design that he apparently improved and perfected and first had tailored in India around 1890.[4][5]

Singh was an avid polo player. When he visited Queen Victoria in England during her Diamond Jubilee celebrations of 1897, he brought his entire polo team, who caused a sensation among the fashionable circles of the United Kingdom by their riding clothes. In addition, they won many polo matches.[6] Singh's jodhpur style of flared thigh and hip was rapidly taken up by the British polo-playing community, who adapted it to the existing designs of English breeches, which ended snugly at mid-calf, and were worn with tall riding boots.

The full-legged design of the true Jodhpur was not adopted as British polo apparel. Early photographs of European polo teams show the continued use of tall boots and breeches. Though the term "jodhpurs" was applied colloquially to this style of breeches, they were not true jodhpurs and are more accurately termed "flared-hip breeches". This British version was soon being produced by Savile Row tailors in London. The use of the Indian-style, ankle-length Jodhpurs allowed riders to use short, less expensive boots, as their calves were protected by the reinforced design and snug fit.

Use

Riding

Jodhpurs (PSF)
Classic riding jodhpurs, showing the extra width in the thigh area, which allows for lateral leg movement when in the saddle.

Special adaptations for riding include a pattern cut with the leg seams on the outside of the leg; a patch on the inside of the knee, sometimes of a hard-wearing material such as leather; and in some cases similar leather or leather-like panel on the seat that helps the rider stay still in the saddle. Classic jodhpurs are beige or white, but for working purposes are now made in a variety of colours.[1] They are particularly well-suited for children, as the shorter paddock boots cost less than tall boots to replace as a child's feet grow.

HalfChaps1
Jodhpur boots, also called paddock boots, are worn with jodhpurs, but also may be worn with breeches if half-chaps are added which provide the functionality and look of a tall riding boot

The word "jodhpurs" is often used interchangeably with riding breeches, though this is technically incorrect. Breeches are riding pants that come down to about mid-calf, and are designed to be worn with long stockings and tall boots. Jodhpurs are ankle length and are worn with short, ankle-high Jodhpur boots, also known as Paddock Boots. Sometimes knee-length half-chaps or leggings may be added.[1]

Occupational uniform

Jodhpurs are sometimes worn as fashion clothing, not only for riding. In popular culture, jodhpur-style breeches worn with tall boots became particularly associated with military staff officers, who wore uniforms based on riding apparel, often derived from the aristocratic cavalry tradition from which many nations historically drew their corps of top commanders.

The style came to be associated with authority figures in general and was copied by certain Hollywood movie directors in the United States. Flared-hip breeches and tall boots formed part of the military uniform of staff officers in Nazi Germany and many Soviet Bloc countries, including the former USSR and East Germany, although the military had replaced the use of horses with motor-driven vehicles. They also were adopted as the uniform for some forces of motorcycle police. Early 20th-century African big game hunters are also associated with the look, due in part to early traditions of riding on horseback in search of quarry. In addition, tall boots protected against snakes and rough or thornbushes if the hunters were walking in rough country.

Fashion

1920s woman in pants
A woman wearing jodhpurs in the 1920s. As women stopped riding sidesaddle, they adopted the use of breeches similar to those worn by men.

Ladies began wearing jodhpurs during the 1920s, as they shifted away from riding horses sidesaddle and rode them astride. One of the first high-profile women to adopt the wearing of jodhpurs was Coco Chanel. She was inspired to copy the breeches as worn by a friend's groom.[7]

As part of the 20th-century trend of crossover fashions moving from sportswear to streetwear, various designers since the later 20th century have incorporated equestrian styles into their clothing, including jodhpurs. Ralph Lauren is the most well-known of such designers, and adapted equestrian styles and motifs as the basis of his Ralph Lauren Polo line. (Polo/Ralph Lauren presented "Man and the Horse", an exhibit of riding clothing and accoutrements from three centuries at the Metropolitan Museum of New York Costume Institute in 1984, curated by Diana Vreeland.)[8]

Kentucky jodhpurs

Lindsey on horse
A rider wearing Kentucky jodhpurs.

Kentucky Jodhpurs are full-length riding pants designed exclusively for Saddle seat riding. Like Hunt Seat jodhpurs, they are close-fitting from waist to ankle. They are noticeably longer, ending with a flared bell bottom that fits over a jodhpur boot, usually extending below the heel of the boot in back, and covering the arch of the foot (but not the toe) in front. The overall look gives the impression of a rider with a long leg and heel lower than the toe, a desired equitation standard for this riding style. Like the hunt seat jodhpur, they have elastic straps that run under the boot to help hold the pant leg in place.[1] Saddle seat riders, whose riding clothing styles were derived from men's business suits, wear Kentucky Jodhpurs in dark colors, usually black, navy blue, or a shade that matches the riding coat.[9]

References

  1. ^ a b c d Price, Steven D. (ed.) The Whole Horse Catalog: Revised and Updated New York:Fireside 1998 ISBN 0-684-83995-4 p. 215
  2. ^ Horse Riding Jodhpurs, Online for Equine
  3. ^ "Indian Fashion, Style, Travel and living Blog". Vintage Obsession.
  4. ^ "Designer Couture for Men by Best Indian Fashion Designer Raghavendra Rathore". www.rathore.com.
  5. ^ Photographs exist of Sir Pratap Singh mounted on a horse, apparently in England, wearing his tight-calfed riding trousers with traditional Indian riding footwear rather than tall boots, dated 1917 & 1918. [1][2] Images, Hulton Archives: 7 March 1917, Sir Pratap Singh on Horseback, Editorial Image #3096959; & gettyimages.co.uk image # 104416011, 1 Jan 1918
  6. ^ "Polo in Rajasthan". Archived from the original on 21 November 2008. Retrieved 17 December 2018.
  7. ^ Goodman, Wendy (26 November 1984). "Fashion". New York Magazine. p. 72.
  8. ^ Goodman, Wendy (26 November 1984). "Fashion". New York Magazine. p. 67.
  9. ^ Crabtree, Helen K. Saddle Seat Equitation: The Definitive Guide Revised Edition; New York: Doubleday, 1982 ISBN 0-385-17217-6 p. 92-100

External links

Media related to Jodhpurs at Wikimedia Commons

Breeches

Breeches ( BRITCH-iz, BREE-chiz) are an article of clothing covering the body from the waist down, with separate coverings for each leg, usually stopping just below the knee, though in some cases reaching to the ankles. The breeches were normally closed and fastened about the leg, along its open seams at varied lengths, and to the knee, by either buttons or by a drawstring, or by one or more straps and buckle or brooches. Formerly a standard item of Western men's clothing, they had fallen out of use by the mid-19th century in favour of trousers. Modern athletic garments used for English riding and fencing, although called breeches or britches, differ from breeches in ways discussed below.

British Warm

A British Warm, British warm or British Warm overcoat is a type of woollen overcoat based on the greatcoats worn by British Army officers in the First World War.

Cache-cœur

A Cache-cœur (French for "hide the heart") is a top for women, composed of two finished triangular parts, each having a strap. It is closed by overlapping the two segments and tying the straps behind the back or along the side, depending on the length. The triangular shape of the sides makes the garment a type of V-neck.

Cape

A cape is a sleeveless outer garment, which drapes the wearer's back, arms and chest, and fastens at the neck.

Captain Triumph

Captain Triumph is a superhero from the Golden Age of Comics who first appeared in Crack Comics #27, published in January 1943 by Quality Comics. The character was later obtained by DC Comics, though by that time he had already lapsed into the public domain. Some of his Golden Age adventures were reprinted by AC Comics in the Men of Mystery anthology. He is not to be confused with another DC Comics property, Triumph.

Coatee

A coatee was a type of tight fitting uniform coat or jacket, which was waist length at the front and had short tails behind. The coatee began to replace the long tail coat in western armies at the end of the eighteenth century, but was itself superseded by the tunic in the mid nineteenth century.A coatee, worn with a waistcoat or vest, remains part of formal Highland dress.

Coronation gown

A coronation gown is a gown worn by a royal lady becoming a queen at her coronation. The design may vary, but it generally has covered shoulders. A royal robe is generally worn over it. The crown, sceptre and orb complete the attire. Coronation gowns are also worn by queen consorts, although theirs is generally more simple than the elaborate versions worn by queen regnants.

Covert coat

A covert coat is a gentleman's overcoat which originated in the late 19th century as a "short topcoat" to be worn for hunting or horse riding.

English riding

English riding is a form of horse riding seen throughout the world. The term is a mis-leading portmanteau because many equestrian countries like Germany, France, Italy or Spain have used the same style of riding, with variations, for centuries. There are many variations, but all feature a flat English saddle without the deep seat, high cantle or saddle horn seen on a Western saddle nor the knee pads seen on an Australian Stock Saddle. Saddles within the various so-called English disciplines are all designed to allow the horse the freedom to move in the optimal manner for a given task, ranging from classical dressage to horse racing. English bridles also vary in style based on discipline, but most feature some type of cavesson noseband as well as closed reins, buckled together at the ends, that prevents them from dropping on the ground if a rider becomes unseated. Clothing for riders in competition is usually based on traditional needs from which a specific style of riding developed, but most standards require, as a minimum, boots; breeches or jodhpurs; a shirt with some form of tie or stock; a hat, cap, or equestrian helmet; and a jacket.

English riding is an equestrian discipline with many different styles, however, at the most basic level, most versions require riders to use both hands on the reins, rather than just one hand, as is seen in western riding. Riders generally "post" or "rise" to the trot (rising and sitting in rhythm with each stride). The "posting trot" is used most often in a working or extended trot, although there are also times when English riders may sit the trot; the "sitting trot" is most often used to ride collected forms of the trot seen in dressage, show hack and hunt seat equitation competition. The posting trot was an English invention which did not take on in other countries until the 19th century. It is said that Napoleon's campaigns from Russia to Spain were all done at a sitting trot.

Guards Coat

A Guards Coat or Guard's Coat (sometimes Guard's coat) is a men's topcoat which has a half belt in the back, and is based on the coat that used to be worn by English Officers of the Guard. It can be buttoned with three buttons or just two. A Guards Coat is similar to a Paletot. The Guards Coat has peaked lapels and welt pockets and comes mostly in formal colours such as a deep navy or midnight blue, and is more formal than the Ulster coat.

Haberdasher

A haberdasher is a person who sells small articles for sewing, such as buttons, ribbons and zippers (in the United Kingdom), or a men's outfitter, often providing one of custom bespoke orders of various requirements, in particular ties. The sewing articles are called haberdashery, or "notions" (American English).

Jodhpur boot

The jodhpur boot is an ankle boot or Chelsea boot designed as a riding boot with a rounded toe and a low heel. They originally fastened with a strap and buckle, but today the term also includes designs with straps that do not wrap entirely around the ankle and the elastic-sided design without a strap also known as Chelsea boots. A closely related riding boot design is called a paddock boot, particularly if modified to have a lace-up front.

List of outerwear

Outerwear is clothing worn outdoors, or clothing designed to be worn outside other garments, as opposed to underwear. It can be worn for formal or casual occasions, or as warm clothing during winter. (Shorter Oxford English Dictionary)

Midway briefs

Midway briefs (or long leg boxer) are a hybrid type of men's undergarment which are longer in the leg than boxer briefs and tighter-fitting, like briefs.

Nana, Rajasthan

Virampura .pali, rajasthan

Nana is a village in the Bali, tehsil of Pali District of the Rajasthan state in India. It is located three kilometres from the railway station of the same name on the Ahmedabad-Ajmer railway line. Virampura, bhagal, Chamunderi, Velar, bhimana, Amalia,serla,chimanpura are nearly village. Pindwada-bali road is just passing near by nana.Virampura is close to Nana just one km. Nana just become sub-block division declerd. Nana police station is also located at railway station just two km from town.nearby city is pindwara 20 km, Sumerpur 40 km, Sheoganj 40 km, shirohi 42 km, aburoad 70 km from Nana. nearest airport is udaipur 120 km away. and jodhpurs is 200 km. District headquarter pali is 100 km from Nana.

Paletot

A paletot is a French topcoat etymologically derived from the Middle English word paltok, meaning a kind of jacket. It is a semi-fitted to fitted coat with peaked lapels, a flat back and no belt. Its double-breasted 6×2 button arrangement has top buttons placed wider, and they are not buttoned.A paletot is often made of flannel or tweed in charcoal or navy blue.

Polo coat

A polo coat, also known as a camel coat, is a men's overcoat associated with polo players in England. Camelhair was the fabric at first, but later camelhair and wool blends became standard due to its higher durability. The terms polo coat and camel coat are thus synonymous.

Polo coats are available from Polo Ralph Lauren but were not invented by Ralph Lauren. The polo coat was originally a wrap coat with a belt, but eventually adopted a double-breasted with buttons configuration.

Robe

A robe is a loose-fitting outer garment. Unlike garments described as capes or cloaks, robes usually have sleeves. The English word robe derives from Middle English robe ("garment"), borrowed from Old French robe ("booty, spoils"), itself taken from the Frankish word *rouba ("spoils, things stolen, clothes"), and is related to the word rob.

Saddle sore

A saddle sore in humans is a skin ailment on the buttocks due to, or exacerbated by, horse riding or cycling on a bicycle saddle. It often develops in three stages: skin abrasion, folliculitis (which looks like a small, reddish acne), and finally abscess.

Because it most commonly starts with skin abrasion, it is desirable to reduce the factors which lead to skin abrasion. Some of these factors include:

Reducing the friction. In equestrian activities, friction is reduced with a proper riding position and using properly fitting clothing and equipment. In cycling, friction from bobbing or swinging motion while pedaling is reduced by setting the appropriate saddle height. Angle and fore/aft position can also play a role, and different cyclists have different needs and preferences in relation to this.

Selecting an appropriate size and design of horse riding saddle or bicycle saddle.

Wearing proper clothing. In bicycling, this includes cycling shorts, with chamois padding. For equestrian activity, long, closely fitted pants such as equestrian breeches or jodhpurs minimize chafing. For western riding, closely fitted jeans with no heavy inner seam, sometimes combined with chaps, are preferred. Padded cycling shorts worn under riding pants helps some equestrians, and extra padding, particularly sheepskin, on the seat of the saddle may help in more difficult situations such as long-distance endurance riding.

Using petroleum jelly, chamois cream or lubricating gel to further reduce friction.If left untreated over an extended period of time, saddle sores may need to be drained by a physician.

In animals such as horses and other working animals, saddle sores often form on either side of the withers, which is the area where the front of a saddle rests, and also in the girth area behind the animal's elbow, where they are known as a girth gall. Saddle sores can occur over the loin, and occasionally in other locations. These sores are usually caused by ill-fitting gear, dirty gear, lack of proper padding, or unbalanced loads. Reducing friction is also of great help in preventing equine saddle sores. Where there is swelling but not yet open sores, the incidence of sore backs may be reduced by loosening the girth without immediately removing the saddle after a long ride, thus allowing normal circulation to return slowly.

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