Fulham

Fulham (/ˈfʊləm/) is an affluent area of the London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham in South West London, England, 3.7 miles (6.0 km) south-west of Charing Cross. It lies on the north bank of the River Thames, between Hammersmith and Kensington and Chelsea, facing Wandsworth, Putney and the Barn Elms part of Barnes.[2][3]

Fulham has a history of industry and enterprise dating back to the 15th century, with pottery, tapestry-weaving, paper-making and brewing in the 17th and 18th centuries in present-day Fulham High Street, and later involvement in the automotive industry, early aviation, food production, and laundries.[4] In the 19th-century there was glass-blowing and this resurged in the 21st-century with the Aronson-Noon studio and Zest gallery in Rickett Street that fell victim to the so-called 'Earl's Court Regeneration' scheme in 2012.

Lillie Bridge Depot, a railway engineering depot opened in 1872, is associated with the building and extension of the London Underground, the electrification of Tube lines from the nearby Lots Road Power Station, and for well over a century has been the maintenance hub for rolling stock and track.[5][6]

Two football clubs, Fulham and Chelsea, play in Fulham.[7][8] There are two exclusive sporting clubs, the Hurlingham Club, known for polo, and the Queen's tennis club, known for its annual pre-Wimbledon tennis tournament.[9][10]

In the 1800s, Lillie Bridge Grounds hosted the first meetings of the Amateur Athletic Association of England, the second FA Cup Final, and the first amateur boxing matches.[11]

The Lillie Bridge area was the home ground of the Middlesex County Cricket Club, before it moved to Marylebone.[12]

Since the late 20th-century Fulham has a reputation as one of the most sought-after locations in London and has the highest capital values per square foot of prime South West London.[13] Fulham is considered a prime London area by estate agents.[14]

Fulham
Fulham Palace courtyard - geograph.org.uk - 835758

Fulham Palace, the former residence of the Bishop of London
Fulham is located in Greater London
Fulham
Fulham
Location within Greater London
Population87,161 (2011)[1]
OS grid referenceTQ245765
• Charing Cross3.7 mi (6.0 km) NE
Ceremonial countyGreater London
Region
CountryEngland
Sovereign stateUnited Kingdom
Post townLONDON
Postcode districtSW6, W14, W6
Dialling code020
PoliceMetropolitan
FireLondon
AmbulanceLondon
EU ParliamentLondon
UK Parliament
Fulham Met. B Ward Map 1916
A map showing the wards of Fulham Metropolitan Borough as they appeared in 1916.

History

Fulham Palace – the Manor of Fulham

Chertsey Breviary - St. Erkenwald
Chertsey Breviary - St. Erkenwald
Chelsea imperial wharf gasworks 2
Sands End Gasworks in 2006

Fulham, or in its earliest form "Fulanhamme", is thought to have signified land in river bend "of fowls" or "mud" (compare Foulness) (noting the Tideway would lap certain fields periodically), or "belonging to an Anglo Saxon chief named Fulla". The manor of Fulham is in medieval documents stated to have been given to Bishop Erkenwald about the year 691 for himself and his successors in the See of London. In effect, as is geographically clear, Fulham Palace, for nine centuries the summer residence of the Bishops of London, is the manor and parish of Fulham.[15] In 879 Danish invaders, sailed up the Thames and wintered at Fulham and Hammersmith. Raphael Holinshed (d.1580) wrote that the Bishop of London was lodging in his manor place in 1141 when Geoffrey de Mandeville, riding out from the Tower of London, took him prisoner. During the Commonwealth the manor was temporarily out of the bishops' hands, having been sold to Colonel Edmund Harvey.

In recent years there has been a great revival of interest in Fulham's earliest history, due almost entirely to the efforts of the Fulham Archaeological Rescue Group. This has carried out a number of interesting digs, particularly in the vicinity of Fulham Palace, which show that approximately 5,000 years ago Neolithic people were living by the riverside and in other parts of the area. Excavations have also revealed Roman settlements during the third and fourth centuries AD.

Fulham parish

There is no record of the original erection of a parish church in Fulham, but the first written record of a church dates from 1154 as a result of a tithe dispute. The first known parish priest of All Saints Church, Fulham was appointed in 1242. The medieval extant part of All Saints Church was demolished in 1881, during reconstruction by Sir Arthur Blomfield, in order to enlarge it, however, it did not date farther back than the 15th century.[16] There is a comparably old church on the opposite bank of the Thames, St Mary's Church, Putney, across what was a ferried crossing.

In 1642 the Earl of Essex withdrawing from the Battle of Brentford (1642) ordered to be put a bridge of boats on the Thames to unite with his detachment in Kingston in pursuit of Charles I, who ordered Prince Rupert to retreat from Brentford back west. The King and Prince moved their troops from Reading to Oxford for the winter. This is thought to have been near the first bridge (which was made of wood). It was commonly named Fulham Bridge, built in 1729 and was replaced in 1886 with Putney Bridge.

Margravine Road recalls the existence of Brandenburg House, a riverside mansion built by Sir Nicholas Crispe in the time of Charles I, and used as the headquarters of General Fairfax in 1647 during the civil wars. In 1792 it was occupied by Charles Alexander, Margrave of Brandenburg-Ansbach and his wife, and in 1820 by Caroline, consort of George IV. His non-political 'wife' was Maria Fitzherbert who lived in East End House in Parson's Green. They are reputed to have had several children.[17]

CharlesAlexanderBrandenburgAnsbach
Charles Brandenburg (1736-1808), owner of 'Brandenburg' House (demolished)

During the 18th century Fulham had a reputation for debauchery, becoming a playground for the wealthy of London, where there was much gambling and prostitution and breweries.

Until an Act of 1834, the neighbouring village-turned-town of Hammersmith had been a perpetual curacy under the parish of Fulham.[18][19] By 1834 it had so many residents, a separate parish with a vicar (no longer a curate) and vestry for works was created. The two areas did not come together again until the commencement of the London Government Act in 1965.

19th century transport and power plays

Charles Booth 1889 map - detail showing Lillie Bridge
Charles Booth 1889 map - detail showing Lillie Bridge, the two railway lines and Brompton Cemetery

The 19th century roused Walham Green village, and the surrounding hamlets that made up the parish of Fulham, from their rural slumber and market gardens with the advent first of power production and then more hesitant transport development.[20] This was accompanied by accelerating urbanisation, as in other centres in the county of Middlesex, which encouraged trade skills among the growing population. In 1824 the Imperial Gas Light and Coke Company, the first public utility company in the world, bought the Sandford estate in Sands End to produce gas for lighting - and in the case of the Hurlingham Club, for ballooning.[21] Its ornately decorated number 2 gasholder is Georgian, completed in 1830 and reputed to be the oldest gasholder in the World.[22] In connection with gas property portfolios, in 1843 the newly formed Westminster Cemetery Company had trouble persuading the Equitable gas people (a future Imperial take-over) to sell them a small portion of land to gain southern access, onto the Fulham Road, from their recently laid out Brompton Cemetery, over the parish border in Chelsea. The sale was finally achieved through the intervention of cemetery shareholder and Fulham resident, John Gunter.[23][24]

010-brompton-cemetery-15c and Kensington Canal by William Cowen
Kensington Canal and Brompton Cemetery by William Cowen, with Stamford Bridge in the distance. c. 1860

Meanwhile, another group of local landowners, led by Lord Kensington with Sir John Scott Lillie and others had conceived, in 1822, the idea of exploiting the water course up-river from Chelsea Creek on their land by turning it into a two-mile canal. It was to have a basin, a lock and wharves, to be known as the Kensington Canal, and link the Grand Union Canal with the Thames. In reality, however, the project was over budget and delayed by contractor bankruptcies and only opened in 1828, when railways were already gaining traction.[25] The short-lived canal concept did however leave a legacy: the creation on Lillie's land of a brewery and residential development, 'Rosa' - and 'Hermitage Cottages', and several roads, notably, the Lillie Road connecting the canal bridge, (Lillie Bridge) at West Brompton with North End Lane and the eventual creation of two railway lines, the West London Line and the District line connecting South London with the rest of the capital. This was done with the input of two noted consulting engineers, Robert Stephenson in 1840 and from 1860, Sir John Fowler.[25]

Lillie Bridge Depot and Earl's Court 1928-EPW024262
Empress Hall with Lillie Bridge Depot, Fulham, before Earl's Court Exhibition was built on the right, 1928-source: Britain from Above.

It meant that the area around Lillie Bridge was to make a lasting, if largely unsung, contribution for well over a century to the development and maintenance of public transport in London and beyond. Next to the Lillie Bridge engineering Depot, the Midland Railway established its own coal and goods yard.

In !907 the engineering HQ of the Piccadilly Line in Richmond Place (16-18 Empress Place) oversaw the westward expansion of the line into the suburbs. At the turn of the century, the London Omnibus Co. in Seagrave Road oversaw the transition of horse-drawn to motor buses, which were eventually integrated into London Transport and London Buses. This attracted a host of other automotive enterprises to move into the area.

With the growth of 19th-century transport links into East Fulham and its sporting venues by 'Lillie Bridge', along with the immediately neighbouring 24-acre Earl's Court exhibition grounds, and the vast the Empress Hall (see entertainment section below). During the First World War it would become accommodation for Belgian refugees. Meanwhile, the historic hamlet of North End was massively redeveloped in the 1880s by Messrs Gibbs & Flew, who built 1,200 houses on the fields. They had trouble disposing of the properties, so for public relations purposes, they renamed the area 'West Kensington', to refer to the more prosperous neighbourhood over the parish boundary.[26]

The last farm to function in Fulham was Crabtree Farm, which closed at the beginning of the 20th-century. A principal recorder of all these changes was a local man, Charles James Féret (1854-1921), who conducted research over a period of decades before publishing his three volume history of Fulham in 1900.[27][28]

Kroller muller museum
Barbara Hepworth's Sphere with inner form, cast at the Art Bronze Foundry in Fulham

Art and Craft

Ceramics and weaving in Fulham go back to at least the 17th century, most notably with the Fulham Pottery, followed by the establishment of tapestry and carpet production with a branch of the French 'Gobelins manufactory' and then the short-lived Parisot weaving school venture in the 1750s. William De Morgan, ceramicist and novelist, moved into Sands End with his painter wife, Evelyn De Morgan, where they lived and worked. Another artist couple, also members of the Arts and Crafts movement, lived at 'the Grange' in North End, Georgiana Burne-Jones and her husband, Edward Burne-Jones, both couples were friends of William Morris.

Other artists who settled along the Lillie Road, were Francesco Bartolozzi, a florentine engraver and Benjamin Rawlinson Faulkner, a society portrait painter. Henri Gaudier-Brzeska, the French expressionist painter and friend of Ezra Pound, lived in Walham Green till his early death in 1915. Glass production was, until recently, represented by the stained glass studio of the purpose-built and Grade II listed Glass House in Lettice Street and latterly, by the Aaronson Noon Studio, with the 'Zest' Gallery in Rickett Street, that was obliged to shut down in 2012, after 20 years by the developers of 'Lillie Square' and Earl's Court. Both glass businesses have now moved out of London.[29][30][31]

The Art Bronze Foundry, founded by Charles Gaskin in 1922 still operates in Michael Road, off the New King's Road, a short distance from Eel Brook Common. It has produced works by Henry Moore, Elisabeth Frink, Barbara Hepworth and Jacob Epstein among others. Its work may be seen in public spaces all over the world.[32]

20th century

Empress Place Fulham
Empress Place (1865), with the former Piccadilly Line HQ, last block on the left of street
Chimney stack at Corbett &McClymont's 1870 Carpentry works in Seagrave Road Fulham
Chimney stack on the old laundry and Kodak lab. site in Rylston Road, Fulham

Fulham remained a predominantly working class area for the first half of the 20th century, with genteel pockets at North End, along the top of Lillie and New King's roads, especially around Parsons Green, Eel Brook Common, South Park and the area surrounding the Hurlingham Club. Essentially, the area had attracted waves of immigrants from the countryside to service industrialisation and the more privileged parts of the capital. With rapid demographic changes there was poverty, as had been noted by Charles Dickens and Charles Booth and Fulham had its Poorhouses, and attracted several benefactors, including: the Samuel Lewis (financier) Housing Trust, the Peabody Trust and Sir Oswald Stoll Foundation to provide low-cost housing.[33]

The Metropolitan Asylums Board acquired in 1876 a 13-acre site at the bottom of Seagrave Road, to build a fever hospital, The Western Hospital, that later became an NHS centre of excellence for treating polio until its closure in 1979.[34] Bar one ward block remaining in private occupation, it was replaced by a gated flats development and a small public space, Brompton Park.[35]

Aside from the centuries-old brewing industry, e.g. The Swan Brewery on the Thames,[36] the main activities were motor and early aviation- Rolls Royce, Shell-Mex, Rover, the London Omnibus Co. - and rail engineering (Lillie Bridge Depot), laundries - the Palace Laundry is still extant - and the building trades.[37] Later there was distilling, Sir Robert Burnett's White Satin Gin,[38] food processing, e.g. Telfer's Pies, Encafood and Spaghetti House and Kodak's photographic processing. This encouraged the southern stretch of North End Road to become Fulham's unofficial 'High street', almost a mile from the actual Fulham High Street, with its own department store, F.H. Barbers, along with Woolworth's, Marks & Spencer and Sainsbury's outlets, all long gone. The second ever Tesco shop opened in the North End Road. The UK's reputedly oldest independent health food shop, opened in 1966 by the Aetherius Society, still trades in the Fulham Road.

Allied to these developments, the post-war period saw the extensive demolition of Fulham's early 19th century architectural stock, replaced by some Brutalist architecture - the current Ibis hotel - and the Empress State Building in Lillie Road that in 1962 replaced the declining Empress Hall. The LCC and local council continued with much needed council housing development between the Second World War and up to the 1980s.

Piece of aviation history

Airco D.H.5 01
De Havilland designed Airco D.H.5 01 war plane

Geoffrey de Havilland, aviation pioneer, built his first aeroplane at his workshop in Bothwell Street, Fulham in 1909.[39] Later, during the First World War, Cannon's Brewery site at the corner of Lillie and North End Road was used for aircraft manufacture.[40] The Darracq Motor Engineering Company of Townmead Road, became aircraft manufacturers in Fulham for the Airco company, producing De Havilland designs and components for the duration of the war.

Musical heritage

This was the home of the GOOSSENS family of musicians 1912-1927
Goossens Family plaque on no. 70 Edith Road, W14.

William Crathern, the composer, was organist at St Mary's Church, West Kensington, when it was still known as North End. Edward Elgar, the composer, lived at 51 Avonmore Road, W14, between 1890–1891.[41] The notorious Italian tenor Giovanni Matteo Mario de Candia and his wife opera singer Giulia Grisi, made Fulham their home from 1852 until the 1900's at a lovely country-manor where their daughters and son were born, among them writer Cecilia Maria de Candia[42]. Eugène Goossens and his wife Annie Cook, a Carl Rosa Opera Company singer settled in Fulham with their family. They were part of a musical dynasty of Belgian descent. Their eldest son was the conductor and composer Sir Eugene Aynsley Goossens next was Léon Jean Goossens (1897-1988), a British oboist, their daughters were the harpists, Marie and Sidonie Goossens. The family lived at 70, Edith Road, off the North End Road. Elvis Costello spent part of his youth in the area as he recalls in his memoir.[43]

Redevelopment

Earls court
Aerial view of Earl's Court, 2008 L-R Empress State Building, Earl's Court Two in H&F and Earl's Court One in RBKC

With the accession of Boris Johnson to the mayoralty of London, a controversial 80 acre high-rise redevelopment has been under way on the eastern borough boundary with the Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea, involving the dismantling of the two Earl's Court Exhibition Centres in RBKC and in Hammersmith and Fulham and the emptying and demolition of hundreds of commercial properties, thousands of both private and social housing units and including the demolition of a rare example in Fulham of mid-Victorian housing, designed by John Young (architect), close to Grade I and II listed structures and to a number of conservation areas in both boroughs. It also involves the closure of the historic Lillie Bridge Depot, opened in 1872 and the dispersal of its operations by TfL[44][45]

Namesake

The latest edition (2008) of the Chambers Dictionary defines a fulham as 'a die loaded at the corner to ensure that certain numbers are thrown (also full'am or full'an). Prob the place name 'Fulham' in London.' The OED distinguishes between a high fulham which was loaded so as to ensure a cast of 4, 5, or 6; and a low fulham, so as to ensure a cast of 1, 2, or 3). It also cites Arthur Conan Doyle's usage in 1889 in Micah Clarke xxx. 316 "There is no loading of the dice, or throwing of fulhams."

Politics

Michael Stewart
Michael Stewart, Baron Stewart of Fulham

Fulham is part of two constituencies: one, Hammersmith bounded by the north side of the Lillie Road, is represented by Andy Slaughter for Labour, the other, Chelsea and Fulham parliamentary seat is currently held by Greg Hands for the Conservatives. Fulham was formerly a part of the Hammersmith and Fulham parliamentary constituency which was dissolved in 2010 to form the current seats. However, parts of Fulham continue to score highly on the Jarman Index, indicating poor health outcomes due to adverse socio-economic factors.

Fulham has in the past been solid Labour territory. Michael Stewart, one time Foreign Secretary in the Wilson government, was its long-standing MP. It became a politically significant part of the country, having been the scene of two major parliamentary by-elections in the 20th century. In 1933, the Fulham East by-election became known as the "peace by-election". The 1986 by-election following the death of Conservative MP, Martin Stevens, resulted in a Labour win for Nick Raynsford on a 10% swing.

With "gentrification", Fulham voters have been leaning towards the Conservatives since the 1980s as the area underwent huge demographic change: the tightly-packed terraces which had housed working-class families employed in trade, engineering and the industry that dominated Fulham's riverside being gradually replaced with young professionals.

In the 2005 General Election, Greg Hands won the Hammersmith and Fulham Parliamentary seat for the Conservatives, polling 45.4% against Labour's 35.2%, a 7.3% swing. In the 2010 General Election, he was re-elected this time for the newly formed Chelsea and Fulham constituency. In the 2015 General Election he was returned with an increased share of the vote.

Hammersmith and Fulham is currently controlled by Labour. At the 2014 local elections, Labour won 11 seats from the Conservatives, giving them 26 councillors and control of the council (said to have been the then Prime Minister David Cameron's "favourite"[46]) for the first time since 2006.

Sport, entertainment and life-style

Sport

Ccffc
The Johnny Haynes stand at Craven Cottage, home of Fulham FC

Before the area became home to the Fulham FC stadium Craven Cottage and the Chelsea FC stadium Stamford Bridge (and the various flats and entertainment centres built into it), the Lillie Bridge Grounds was the venue where British Amateur Athletics were born and the first codified Boxing under Marquess of Queensberry Rules took place. All this was accomplished through the catalyst that was John Graham Chambers from the mid-1860s.

Famously exclusive sports clubs, the Queen's Club for tennis and the Hurlingham Club, are located within Fulham.

In the case of the latter, members have included British monarchs and the waiting list for membership currently averages over fifteen years. Public tennis courts are located at the entrance to Fulham Palace. Tennis courts can also be found on Eel Brook Common. Hurlingham Park's tennis courts are used as netball courts and tennis nets are taken down and so restricting access to the courts for tennis. Hurlingham Park hosts the annual Polo in the Park tournament, which has become a recent feature of the area. The Hurlingham club is the historic home of polo in the United Kingdom and of the world governing body of polo.

Rugby is played on Eel Brook Common and South Park.[47] Normand Park in Lillie Road is the entry into the Virgin Active-operated Fulham Pools swimming facilities and neighbouring tennis courts. Fulham can boast of two connections with the 'royal' game of Real tennis. There are the courts at the Queen's Club and then there was an unsurpassed designer of real tennis courts, one Joseph Bickley (1835-1923), who lived in Lillie Road and who took out a patent on his plaster mixture that withstood condensation and damp. To Bickley's skill are owed the survival, among others, of courts at Hampton Court Palace, Jesmond Dene, at Troon in Ayrshire as well as at the local Queen's.[48][49]

Fulham has five active Bowls clubs: The Bishops Park Bowls club, The Hurlingham Park Bowls Club, Normand Park Bowls Club, The Parson's Green Bowls club and The Winnington in Bishops Park.

Fulham Baths 01
Fulham Baths

Entertainment

The most considerable entertainment (and sports) destinations in Fulham, after the Lillie Bridge Grounds closed in 1888, have been the 6,000-seater Empress Hall,[50] built in 1894 at the instigation of international impresario, Imre Kiralfy - the scene of his spectacular shows and later sporting events and famous ice shows - and latterly, Earl's Court II, part of the Earl's Court Exhibition Centre in the neighbouring, Royal Borough of Kensington and Chelsea.[51] The first closed in 1959, replaced by an office block, the Empress State Building. The second, opened by Princess Diana, lasted just over 20 years until 2014. Along with the architecturally pleasing Mid-Victorian Empress Place, formerly access to the exhibition centre, it is destined for high rise re-development, but with usage as yet to be confirmed.[52][53]

No trace is left today of either of Fulham's two theatres, both opened in 1897. The 'Grand Theatre' was on the approach to Putney Bridge and was designed by the prolific WGR Sprague, author of venues such as Wyndham's Theatre and the Aldwych Theatre in London's West End. It gave way to office blocks in the late 1950s. The 'Granville Theatre', founded by Dan Leno, to the design of Frank Matcham, once graced a triangle of land at Walham Green.[54] After the Music hall era had passed, It served as a film and television studio, but was finally demolished in 1971. It too has been replaced by an office block in Fulham Broadway.[55]

If traditional or heritage venues have been swept away - apparently during conservative administrations in the main - the performing arts continue in Fulham, like the notable Fulham Symphony Orchestra and the successful Fulham Opera.[56] St John's Parish Church, at the top of North End Road, stages choral and instrumental concerts as do other churches in the area.[57]

There is a cinema complex as part of the Fulham Broadway Centre. Fulham Town Hall, built in 1888 in the classical renaissance, is now used as a popular venue for concerts and dances, especially its Grand Hall. Behind Fulham Broadway, the heart of the original village of Walham Green has undergone pedestrianization, including the spot once occupied by the village green and its pond next to St. John's Parish Church and bordered by a number of cafés, bars, and a dance studio in the old Fulham Public Baths. The largest supermarket in Fulham, is located on the site of a cinema later converted to the iconic "Dicky Dirts" jean store with its sloping shop-floor, at the top of North End Road's Street market. It started a new trend in how retail was done.[58]

Gin, breweries and pubs

Lillie Langtry pub (formerly, 'The Lillie Arms) 1835
Lillie Langtry pub (formerly, 'The Lillie Arms'), 1835

The most illustrious brewery in Fulham was the Swan Brewery, Walham Green, dating back to the 17th-century. Among its patrons were kings and other royalty.[59] It was followed by the 'North End Brewery' in 1832, Cannons again in North End in 1867 and finally on account of temperance, the alcohol-free phenomenon that was Kops Brewery founded in 1890 at a site in Sands End.

Gin distilling came to the remnants of the North End Brewery in Seagrave Road after a brief period of service as a timber works in the 1870s and lasted for almost a century. The premises were taken over by distillers, Vickers who at the outbreak of the First World War sold out to Burnett's, producers of White Satin Gin, until a 1970s take-over by a Kentucky liquor business. None of the breweries remain.

With its long history of brewing, Fulham still has a number of pubs and gastropubs.[60] The oldest tavern is the 'Lillie Langtry' in Lillie Road, originally the 'Lillie Arms' named after its first freeholder, Sir John Scott Lillie, who built it in 1835 as part of the 'North End Brewery' complex, run from 1832-3 by a Miss Goslin.[61] It was intended originally to service the Kensington Canal workers and bargees. Later, it was the watering hole of the new railway builders, motor and omnibus company staff and latterly Earl's Court exhibition and Chelsea F.C. visitors. Of the three popular neighbouring pubs acquired by developers during 2014-15, the 'Imperial Arms' and the 'Prince of Wales' were forced to shut; only "the Atlas", reconstructed after bomb damage in the Second World War, has been reprieved. The White Horse in Parsons Green is colloquially known by many as the "Sloaney Pony",[62] a reference to the "Sloane Rangers" who frequent it. 'Pubs which are Grade II listed buildings include the Duke on the Green and Aragon House both facing Parsons Green, the Cock in North End Road, and the Temperance in Fulham High Street. Other pubs include the Durrell in Fulham Road, the locally and Michelin Guide listed, 1866 Harwood Arms in Walham Grove and the Mitre on Bishops Road.[63]

Open space

Fulham has several parks, cemeteries and open spaces, of which Bishop's Park, Fulham Palace Gardens, Hurlingham Park, South Park, Eel Brook Common and Parsons Green are the largest.

Among the other spaces are Normand Park, the vestige of a convent garden with a bowling green, Lillie Road Recreation Ground with its gym facility and Brompton Park in Seagrave Road. The Thames riverside walk in Bishop's Park is interrupted by the Fulham football ground, but resumes after the neighbouring flats and continues to the Crabtree pub and beyond, past the Riverside Cafe on towards Hammersmith Bridge, affording views of the river and rural scenes on the opposite bank. It is part of the Thames Path.

Heritage

Architectural

Fulham parish's rural past meant that its grand houses and not so grand vernacular and industrial buildings were either clustered in the village of Walham Green, along the Thames or scattered among the fields of the hamlet of North End. Many historic structures fell prey to industrialisation, war-time bombing or a rush to demolition and redevelopment. Gone are Burne-Jones's 'Grange' in W14 and Foote's 'Hermitage' villa and park as is Lovibond's Cannon Brewery in SW6.[64]

However, the ancient estate of Fulham Palace, the seat of the Bishops of London, remains the outstanding asset with its medieval and Tudor features, remnants of the grounds, now divided between public allotments and a park with a Kitchen garden and the part-excavated longest moat in England. Part of the buildings are Grade I listed, while others Grade II*. There are a number of other statutorily and locally listed structures strewn across Fulham. Worthy of note is the last remaining conical kiln of the Fulham Pottery. Broomhouse Lane has a number of structures of interest, ranging from the Broomhouse draw-dock of medieval origin to 18th-c. cottages (Sycamore and Ivy) and the Gothic revival Castle Club.[65] The Vineyard in Hurlingham Road is of 17th-c. origin with later 19th-c. additions such as the stable buildings. The Hurlingham Club and grounds are of 18th-c. origin and Grade II* listed.

The winding North End Road has several buildings of note, especially, 'Crowthers' at no. 282, first built in 1712 with its extant 18th-c. gate-piers and the modernist (1938) Seven Stars public house, now converted into flats. Church Gate is the approach to All Saints Church, with its 14-15th-c. tower and 18th-c. tombs in the churchyard. The New King's Road contains several 18th-c. and early 19th-c. residences, namely, Northumberland House, Claybrook House, Jasmine House, Belgrave House and Aragon House, all Grade II listed.[66]

Aragon House, Parsons Green, SW6 (5306977458)
Aragon House, Parsons Green, SW6

Much of the stock in Fulham attests its vigorous 19th-c. industrial and urban development, most of it, 'low-rise', and benefiting from the brick-fields that abounded locally at the time. An unlisted vestige of the early industrial era is the 1826 remnant of Gunter's canal bridge, still visible from platform 4 at West Brompton station.

Fulham in popular music and film

Thomas Robert Way00
Thomas Robert Way00

Fulham has several references in song lyrics:

Fulham has been featured in films including The Omen and The L-Shaped Room. Fulham Broadway Underground station was used in Sliding Doors.

Esther Rantzen, presenter of long-running BBC One TV magazine, That's Life! frequently used North End market to gauge public opinion (vox pop).[67]

Education

Fulham is home to several schools, including independent pre-preparatory and preparatory schools. Noted Fulham secondary establishments are the Grade II Listed Fulham Cross Girls School, The London Oratory School, Lady Margaret School and Henry Compton School.[68] To cater for the large French-speaking population in the area, a French language primary school, 'Marie d'Orliac', has opened near Putney Bridge station. It is a feeder school for the Lycée Français Charles de Gaulle in South Kensington.

Interior design destinations

Fulham's artistic and craft heritage continues in the guise of groups of specialist retail outlets in several locations, such as the Wandsworth Bridge and Carnwarth Roads. The corner of Lillie Road and Munster Road hosts a number of antique shops.[69]

New Kings Road has a number of interior shops and galleries, particularly near Lots Road and as it merges with Kings Road, Chelsea, and goes through Parsons Green. Chelsea Harbour is a favoured destination for interior designers.

Transport

An early account of Fulham, from a pedestrian's viewpoint, is provided by Thomas Crofton Croker in his journal published in 1860.[70]

Rail

Lillie Bridge into Fulham
From West Brompton station, looking over Lillie Bridge into Fulham, 2015

Fulham nestles in a loop of the Thames across the river from Barnes and Putney. It straddles the Wimbledon and Richmond/Ealing Broadway branches of the District line of the tube — Fulham's tube stations are Putney Bridge, Parsons Green, Fulham Broadway (originally named Walham Green), West Kensington (originally Fulham - North End) and Baron's Court.[71]

The London Overground West London Line stops at West Brompton, just inside the Fulham borough boundary, and at Imperial Wharf in Fulham, Sands End. Until 1940 there was a Chelsea and Fulham railway station on this line, close to Stamford Bridge Stadium on Fulham Road, but this was closed following World War II bomb damage.[72]

Major roads

Major urban routes, or trunk roads, cross the area: The Talgarth Road - the A4, Fulham Palace Road - the A218 road, Fulham Road - the A219 road, the New King's Road - the A308 road, Wandsworth Bridge Road - the A217 road, Dawes Road - the A3219 road, Lillie Road - the A3218 road.

River crossings

Putney Bridge
Putney Bridge with Fulham on the left

By road:

By rail:

Places of interest

John Roque's 1746 Map

The extract below of John Rocque's Map of London, 1746 shows the Parish of Fulham in the loop of the Thames, with the boundary with Chelsea, Counter's Creek, narrow and dark, flowing east into the river. The recently built, wooden, first Fulham/Putney bridge is shown and two Fulham village clusters, one central, one south-west.

This sheet extract is a clickable image for enlargement
An Exact Survey of the citys of London Westminster ye Borough of Southwark and the Country near ten miles round (5 of 6)
This sheet extract is a clickable image for enlargement
An Exact Survey of the citys of London Westminster ye Borough of Southwark and the Country near ten miles round (5 of 6)

Notable people

Demorganducks
De Morgan's 'Fantastic Ducks' on 6-inch tile with lustre highlights, Fulham period
All Saints Church, Fulham, London - Diliff
All Saints Church, Fulham, London - Diliff
WLANL - MicheleLovesArt - Princessehof - Tegeltableau William de Morgan
William De Morgan (c. 1890), Sands Ends Pottery: a tile inspired by Middle East examples.

16th century

17th century

18th century

19th century

20th century

Hans Holbein d. J. 062

Portrait of William Butts, physician to Henry VIII. He came from Fulham

Nell Gwyn by Simon Verelst (2)

Nell Gwyn by Simon Verelst. She lived in Fulham

Joseph Addison by Sir Godfrey Kneller, Bt

Kneller's portrait of Joseph Addison of Sands End

Samuel Richardson by Mason Chamberlin

Novelist, Samuel Richardson, who moved from North End to Parsons Green

Granville Sharp (Hoare memoire)

Granville Sharp (Hoare memoire). He is buried in Fulham

Demorgans

De Morgan and his wife, Evelyn. They lived and worked in Sands End

Georgiana Burne-Jones by Edward Coley Burne-Jones

Georgiana Burne-Jones and children by Edward Coley Burne-Jones. They lived in North End

Henri Gaudier-Brzeska self portrait

Henri Gaudier-Brzeska self-portrait

Janet Street-Porter at station

Janet Street-Porter grew up in Fulham

Linford Christie 2009

Linford Christie in 2009. He attended Henry Compton School

Daniel Radcliffe SDCC 2014

Daniel Radcliffe in 2014. He comes from Fulham

See also

Gallery

Fulham Broadway stn entrance mall exterior

Entrance to Fulham Broadway station

Covered Tankard, John Dwight, Fulham, c. 1685-1690 - Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art - DSC08692

Covered tankard made by Fulham Pottery, c. 1685-1690

Battersea Railway Bridge, London 04

Cremorne Bridge, West London Extension Railway Bridge, towards Fulham

Mulberry fruit and leaves at Fulham Palace - geograph.org.uk - 835697

Mulberries at Fulham Palace

Arch in Tudor brick wall, Fulham Palace - geograph.org.uk - 835785

Tudor entrance to Fulham Palace kitchen garden

Gunter's Lillie Bridge, 1826

vestige of 1826 canal bridge from Lillie Bridge, Fulham

Corbett & McClymontt's 1870 Wood Workshop, Seagrave Road Fulham

Corbett & McClymont's 1870 Carpentry workshop in Seagrave Road, Fulham

County Court, North End Road W14 - geograph.org.uk - 1229455

Former Fulham County Court House in North End Road

St John's Church, North End Road SW6 - geograph.org.uk - 1459602

Parish Church of St John, Fulham

Fulham Town Hall 02

Fulham Town Hall entrance in Fulham Road

Fulham Palace Road Cemetery - geograph.org.uk - 1039602

Fulham Cemetery in Fulham Palace Road

St Thomas of Canterbury, Fulham, February 2015 02

Pugin's St Thomas RC Church in Rylston Road, Fulham

WestBrompton4

London Overground at West Brompton in Fulham

Fulham House 01

Fulham House in Fulham High Street

St Pauls' Studios, Talgarth Road W14 - geograph.org.uk - 1311270

St Paul's Studios, Talgarth Road

Imperial Wharf stn western entrance2

Imperial Wharf station western entrance 2

Fulham Fire Station 02

Fulham Fire Station

Market, North End Road, Fulham, London 02

Market, North End Road, Fulham, London

Kops Brewery, Fulham 02

Kops Brewery, Sands End

River Thames by Bishop's Park - geograph.org.uk - 1088471

River Thames by Bishop's Park

Bibliography

  • The Fulham and Hammersmith Historical Society -[105] has a number of publications about the locality.
  • Thomas Faulkner (1777-1855), An Historical and topographical account of Fulham; including the hamlet of Hammersmith . 1813. RCIN 1077212[106]

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External links

London/Hammersmith and Fulham travel guide from Wikivoyage

 This article incorporates text from a publication now in the public domainChisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). "Fulham" . Encyclopædia Britannica. 11 (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press. p. 293.

1982 Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council election

The 1982 Hammersmith and Fulham Council election took place on 6 May 1982 to elect members of Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council in London, England. The whole council was up for election and the council stayed in no overall control.

1990 Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council election

The 1990 Hammersmith and Fulham Council election took place on 3 May 1990 to elect members of Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council in London, England. The whole council was up for election and the Labour party stayed in overall control of the council.

1998 Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council election

The 1998 Hammersmith and Fulham Council election took place on 7 May 1998 to elect members of Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council in London, England. The whole council was up for election and the Labour party stayed in overall control of the council.

2006 Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council election

Elections to Hammersmith and Fulham Council were held on 4 May 2006. The whole council was up for election for the first time since the 2002 election.

Hammersmith and Fulham local elections are held every four years. Therefore, the next elections were held in 2010.

2014 Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council election

The 2014 Hammersmith and Fulham Council election took place on 22 May 2014 to elect members of Hammersmith and Fulham Council in England. This was on the same day as other local elections.

Chelsea F.C.

Chelsea Football Club is a professional football club based in London, England, that competes in the Premier League, the highest tier of English football. The club has won eight League titles, eight FA Cups, five League Cups, four FA Community Shields, two UEFA Cup Winners' Cups, one UEFA Champions League, one UEFA Europa League, and one UEFA Super Cup.Founded in 1905, the club's home ground since then has been Stamford Bridge. Chelsea won its only First Division title in 1955, but saw limited success in various cup competitions until 2003, when the club was purchased by Russian billionaire Roman Abramovich. Chelsea then saw heavy investment, and have since won eighteen honours under Abramovich.José Mourinho is the club's most successful manager in terms of the number of major honours won, and his title-winning team set an English record for points between 2004 and 2005. Chelsea have traditionally wore a royal blue kit with white socks, and the club's crest features a ceremonial lion rampant regardant holding a staff. The club have rivalries with neighbouring clubs Fulham, Arsenal, and Tottenham Hotspur.

In terms of club value, Chelsea are the seventh most valuable football club in the world, worth £1.54 billion ($2.06 billion), and are the eighth highest-earning football club in the world, with earnings of over €428 million in the 2017–18 season. Based on attendance figures, the club have the sixth-largest fanbase in England.

Chris Coleman (footballer)

Christopher Patrick Coleman, OBE (born 10 June 1970) is a Welsh professional football manager and former player who is currently the head coach of Hebei China Fortune.

As a player, Coleman usually played in defence, while also occasionally appearing as a forward. He began his career at Manchester City, leaving as a teenager to make his debut for hometown team Swansea City in 1987. In 1991, he joined Crystal Palace, whom he represented in the Premier League. He spent a year-and-a-half at league champions Blackburn Rovers before signing for Fulham in 1997, helping the team to two promotions from the third tier to the top flight. He won 32 caps playing for Wales. Coleman's playing career ended at the age of 32, when his leg was broken in a car crash.

Following this, he started his coaching career at Fulham. In his first full season as manager, he guided the club to ninth place in the 2003–04 Premier League. After leaving Fulham, Coleman was appointed manager of Real Sociedad, where he resigned in January 2008 due to differences with the incoming president. He returned to England to manage Coventry City, but was dismissed in May 2010 following a poor run of results. Coleman then managed Greek side AEL for the first half of the 2011–12 season before resigning due to financial troubles at the club. In 2012, he took over as Wales national team manager after the death of Gary Speed, and led Wales to UEFA Euro 2016, their first major tournament since the 1958 FIFA World Cup, where they made the semi-finals.

Clint Dempsey

Clinton Drew Dempsey (; born March 9, 1983) is an American retired professional soccer player who played as a forward. During his career, he played in England for Fulham and Tottenham Hotspur, and in Major League Soccer for New England Revolution and Seattle Sounders FC.

A native of Nacogdoches, Texas, Dempsey spent his youth career with the Dallas Texans before joining Furman University's men's soccer team in 2001. In 2004, Dempsey was drafted by the New England Revolution, where he scored 25 goals in 71 appearances. Between 2007 and 2012, Dempsey played for Fulham in the Premier League, eventually becoming the club's leading Premier League goalscorer. Dempsey also became the first American player to score a hat-trick in the Premier League during a 5–2 win against Newcastle United in 2012.On August 31, 2012, Tottenham signed Dempsey for a fee of $9.6 million, then a record signing for an American. Dempsey scored 12 goals in one season with Tottenham, giving him 72 goals across all competitions for Premier League clubs—the most by an American in a top-tier European league. He was signed by the Seattle Sounders the following year and played 115 matches for the club, scoring 47 goals, and leading the club to win the 2014 Supporters' Shield. During the 2016 season, Dempsey was diagnosed with an irregular heartbeat and missed the team's run to the MLS Cup. Dempsey returned the following season and announced his retirement from professional soccer on August 29, 2018.

Dempsey represented the United States at the 2003 FIFA World Youth Championship and made his first appearance with the senior team on November 17, 2004, against Jamaica. He earned more than 140 caps and scored 57 international goals, making him the nation's fourth-most capped player and tying him with Landon Donovan as the top all-time scorer with 57 goals. Dempsey has represented the United States at four CONCACAF Gold Cups (winning three), helped them to the final of the 2009 FIFA Confederations Cup, and scored in each of the three FIFA World Cups he attended. Both ESPN and FOX Sports have ranked Dempsey as the greatest American footballer in history.

Craven Cottage

Craven Cottage is a football stadium located in Fulham, London. It has been the home ground of Fulham F.C. since 1896.

The ground's current capacity is 25,700, all-seated, though the record attendance is 49,335, for a game against Millwall, 8 October 1938. Located next to Bishop's Park on the banks of the River Thames, 'Craven Cottage' was originally a royal hunting lodge and has history dating back over 300 years.As well as by Fulham, the stadium has been also been used by the United States men's national soccer team, Australia national football team, the Republic of Ireland national football team, and Canada men's national football team, and was formerly the home ground for rugby league team Fulham RLFC.

Dimitar Berbatov

Dimitar Ivanov Berbatov (Bulgarian: Димитър Иванов Бербатов [diˈmitɐr bɛrˈbatɔf]; born 30 January 1981) is a Bulgarian professional footballer. A striker, he captained the Bulgaria national team from 2006 to 2010, and is the country's all-time leading goalscorer. He has also won the Bulgarian Footballer of the Year a record seven times, surpassing the number of wins by Hristo Stoichkov.

Born in Blagoevgrad, Berbatov started out with his home-town club Pirin before joining CSKA Sofia as a 17-year-old in 1998. He was signed by Bayer Leverkusen of Germany in January 2001 and played in his first Champions League final 18 months later, coming on as a substitute in the 2002 UEFA Champions League Final, which Leverkusen lost 2–1 to Real Madrid.

After five-and-a-half years with Leverkusen, he joined English club Tottenham Hotspur in July 2006, where he spent two years before moving to Manchester United. He played in his second Champions League final in 2009, during his side's 2–0 defeat against Barcelona. After four seasons with United, during which time he won two Premier League titles in 2008–09 and 2010–11, as well as the Premier League Golden Boot in 2010–11, he joined Fulham in August 2012. He had later spells in France with Monaco, Greece with PAOK, and India with Kerala Blasters.

Fulham F.C.

Fulham Football Club () is a professional association football club based in Fulham, West London, England. Founded in 1879, they currently compete in the Premier League, the top tier of English football, following their promotion from the EFL Championship in the 2017–18 season. They are the oldest football team from London to play in the Football League.The club has spent 27 seasons in English football's top division, the majority of these in two spells during the 1960s and 2000s. The latter spell was associated with former chairman Mohamed Al-Fayed, after the club had climbed up from the fourth tier in the 1990s. Fulham have never won a major honour, although they have reached two major finals: in 1975, as a Second Division team, they contested the FA Cup Final for the only time in their history, losing 2–0 to West Ham United, and in 2010 they reached the final of the UEFA Europa League, which they contested with Atlético Madrid in Hamburg, losing 2–1 after extra time.

Hammersmith

Hammersmith is a district of west London, England, located 4.3 miles (6.9 km) west-southwest of Charing Cross. It is the administrative centre of the London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham, and identified in the London Plan as one of 35 major centres in Greater London.

It is bordered by Shepherd's Bush to the north, Kensington to the east, Chiswick to the west, and Fulham to the south, with which it forms part of the north bank of the River Thames. It is linked by Hammersmith Bridge to Barnes in the southwest. The area is one of west London's main commercial and employment centres, and has for some decades been a major centre of London's Polish community. It is a major transport hub for west London, with two London Underground stations and a bus station at Hammersmith Broadway.

King's Road

King's Road or Kings Road (or sometimes the King's Road, especially when it was the King's private road until 1830, or as a colloquialism by middle/upper class London residents), is a major street stretching through Chelsea and Fulham, both in west London. It is associated with 1960s style and with fashion figures such as Mary Quant and Vivienne Westwood. Sir Oswald Mosley's Blackshirt movement had a barracks on the street in the 1930s.

London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham

The London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham (pronunciation ) is a London borough partly in West London (Hammersmith, West Kensington) and partly in South West London (Fulham), and forms part of Inner London.

Traversed by the east-west main roads of the A4 Great West Road and the A40 Westway, many international corporations have offices in the borough. The local council is Hammersmith and Fulham London Borough Council.

The borough is amongst the four most expensive boroughs for residential properties in the United Kingdom, along with Kensington And Chelsea, City of Westminster and Camden.The borough is unique in London in having three professional football clubs, Chelsea, Fulham and Queens Park Rangers.

Queens Park Rangers F.C.

Queens Park Rangers Football Club, commonly abbreviated to QPR, is a professional association football club based in White City, London. The team currently plays in the Championship, the second tier of English football. Their most recent appearance in the Premier League was during their 2014–15 season. Their honours include winning the League Cup in 1967, as well as the Second Division in 1983 and the Championship in 2011. QPR were also triumphant in the 2013–14 Championship playoffs and were winners of the Third Division South in 1947–48 and the Third Division in 1966–67.

They were runners-up in the First Division in 1975–76, and reached the final of the 1982 FA Cup.Queens Park Rangers were founded in 1886 after the merger of Christchurch Rangers and St. Judes Institute. In the early years after the club's formation in its original home of Queen's Park, London, they played their home games at many different grounds, until finally the club settled into its current location at Loftus Road.Owing to their proximity to the other west London clubs, QPR maintain long-standing rivalries with several other clubs in the surrounding area. The most notable of these are Chelsea, Fulham and Brentford, with whom they contest the West London Derbies.

Shahid Khan

Shahid "Shad" Khan (Urdu: شاہد خان‬‎; born July 18, 1950), is a Pakistani-American billionaire businessman. He is the owner of the Jacksonville Jaguars of the National Football League (NFL) and Fulham F.C. of the English Premier League and Professional wrestling promotion All Elite Wrestling (AEW) where he is lead investor. Khan is also the owner of the automobile parts manufacturer Flex-N-Gate in Urbana, Illinois.

Khan was featured on the front cover of Forbes magazine in 2012, associating him as the face of the American Dream. As of February 2019, Khan's net worth is $7 billion. He is ranked 65th in the Forbes 400 list of richest Americans, and is overall the 217th wealthiest person in the world. He is also the richest person of Pakistani origin.

Stamford Bridge (stadium)

Stamford Bridge () is a football stadium in Fulham, adjacent to the borough of Chelsea in South West London, commonly referred to as The Bridge. It is the home Chelsea Football Club, which competes in the Premier League.

The capacity is 41,631, making it the eighth largest stadium in the 2017–18 Premier League season. The club has plans to expand capacity to 63,000 by the 2023–2024 season. When expansion starts, Chelsea intend to play at Wembley Stadium until they return in 2024.Opened in 1877, the stadium was used by the London Athletic Club until 1905, when new owner Gus Mears founded Chelsea Football Club to occupy the ground; Chelsea have played their home games there ever since. It has undergone major changes over the years, most recently in the 1990s when it was renovated into a modern, all-seater stadium.

Stamford Bridge has been a venue for England international matches, FA Cup Finals, FA Cup semi-finals and Charity Shield games. It has also hosted numerous other sports, such as cricket, rugby union, speedway, greyhound racing, baseball and American football. The stadium's highest official attendance is 82,905, for a league match between Chelsea and Arsenal on 12 October 1935.

West London derby

The West London Derby is the name given to a football derby played between any two of Brentford, Chelsea, Fulham and Queens Park Rangers, all of whom are situated within West London.

The West London derby is less prominent than other such derbies in English football, owing to the teams frequently being in separate divisions. Chelsea did not face Fulham between 1986 and 2001, and have played Brentford only twice since 1950. QPR did not face Brentford between 1966 and 2001, and did not play Chelsea between 1996 and 2008. The derby's most common match, Chelsea vs Fulham, has taken place 75 times. By contrast, the North London derby has been contested over 170 times, and the Merseyside derby over 200 times. The 2011–12 campaign was the first instance of three of the west London clubs competing in the top flight in the same season: Chelsea, Fulham and QPR.

According to the 2012 Football Rivalries Survey, Fulham regard QPR as their main rivals, Chelsea as their secondary rivals and then Brentford third. QPR fans identified Chelsea as their main rivals, Fulham second and Cardiff City/Stoke City third. Brentford fans chose Fulham as their main rivals, QPR as their secondary rivals and Chelsea as their third. Chelsea fans did not list any of the trio from West London, instead selecting Arsenal, Tottenham Hotspur and Manchester United.

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