Carlos Carsolio

Carlos Carsolio Larrea (born 4 October 1962 in Mexico City) is a Mexican mountain climber. Carsolio is known for being the fourth man (first non-European) and the second youngest to climb the world's 14 eight-thousander mountain peaks, all of them without supplementary oxygen (but he required emergency oxygen on his descent from Makalu in 1988).

Carlos Carsolio
Born4 October 1962 (age 56)
ResidenceValle de Bravo, México
OccupationMountaineering,
motivational speaker,
entrepreneur.
Spouse(s)Elsa Ávila (divorced).
ChildrenKarina and Santiago
Websitehttp://www.carsolio.com.mx

Early years

Carsolio, the eldest of seven children, was introduced to mountaineering by his mother. When she was pregnant, she climbed Iztaccíhuatl (5,220 meters) despite her doctor's recommendations.[1] Carsolio admired climber Hermann Buhl in his youth, and later Lynn Hill, Peter Croft and Jerzy Kukuczka.[2]

His first ascents were in Mexico: Pico de Orizaba, Popocatépetl and Iztaccíhuatl. In the early 1980s Carsolio climbed the nose of El Capitan in Yosemite, California.

At age 22, Carsolio got his first big achievement when he climbed Reinhold Messner's tough south face route of Aconcagua, the highest peak in the Americas at 6,962 meters (22,841 ft).[3] He traveled to Patagonia in 1990 with his friend Andrés Delgado to make the first Mexican ascent of Cerro Torre, considered by experts as the world's most difficult mountain for its great granite wall of at least 800 meters (2,625 ft), no matter what path climbers seek to attack. In 1991 Carsolio and Delgado climbed on Baffin Island, Canada where they accomplished the first Mexican summit.

The eight-thousanders

Carsolio climbed his first eight-thousander with Jerzy Kukuczka; considered by some the best high-altitude climber in the world. They climbed Nanga Parbat on July 13, 1985, with a Polish expedition, led by Pawel Mularz.[4]

Carsolio summited Shisha Pangma with Elsa Ávila, Ramíro Navarrete, Ryszard Warecki and Wanda Rutkiewicz, and being the first to traverse the sharp snow arête from the Central Summit to the Main Summit. Carsolio and Ávila were the first Mexicans to reach that peak, for Navarrete would be the first Ecuadorian eight-thousander on July 18, 1987.[5][6]

His solo ascension of Makalu on October 12, 1988 was the third eight-thousander in Carsolio's career. He required rescue and emergency oxygen on the descent.[7][8]

On October 13, 1989 Carsolio headed a Mexican expedition to make summit on Mount Everest by the southeast route without the aid of bottled oxygen. This was a pending account with the mountain, months before with Elsa Ávila; they had to abort the mission because his partner got severe pulmonary edema only 92 meters (302 ft), from the summit. They were forced to retreat. Elsa would summit Everest 10 years later. However, on May 16, his countryman, Ricardo Torres-Nava, reached the mountaintop to become the first Mexican and Latin American to do so, with supplementary oxygen on an American expedition.[9][10] 1989 was a particularly hard year on Everest. Sherpas saw it as a "dark year" because of 24 people who reached the summit, 8 died during the descent.[11]

On May 12, 1992 Carsolio made the summit of Kangchenjunga climbing solo. Wanda Rutkiewicz began the ascent with Carlos at 3:30 AM on May 12 from camp IV, located at 7,950 meters (26,083 ft). After a dozen hours of climbing under heavy snowfall, Carsolio reached the top, becoming the only climber to do so that year. On his descent, between 8,200 and 8,300 meters (26,900 – 27,230 ft), Carsolio encountered Rutkiewicz. Although she had no food, she decided to bivouac and attempt the summit the next day. Carsolio was exhausted and could not convince her to descend with him, and she was never seen again.[12]

The sixth eight-thousander for Carsolio was K2 on 13 June 1993, considered by many climbers the most difficult peak in the world.[13]

On April 26, 1994, Carsolio reached the summit of Cho Oyu, establishing a speed record: ascent from base camp in 18 hours and 45 minutes.[14]

On May 13, 1994, Carsolio set a new speed record on Lhotse, with a climb of 23 hours and 50 minutes from base camp to the summit. This was Carsolio's eighth solo eight-thousander.

The Carsolio Route. On July 9, 1994 Carlos reached the summit solo of Broad Peak, establishing a new route on the west face of the mountain, now known by his name. Carsolio called it his most successful climb. With that, he became only the fifth person to establish a new solo route of an eight-thousander.[15]

Carsolio ended that year, 1994, with two world records set in just 17 days, a new route with his name and three more eight-thousanders in his statistics.

1995 was the most productive year for Carsolio. He conquered Annapurna on April 25, Dhaulagiri on May 15, Gasherbrum II on July 4 and Gasherbrum I on July 15. This left only Manaslu on his list. Carlos tried Manaslu with Kukuczka in 1986, but failed at that time with principles of freezing on fingers and toes, and nearly lost his life on this expedition in an attempt of a new route.

On 12 May 1996, Carlos and his younger brother, Alfredo, made the summit of Manaslu in Alpine style. For Carlos was his long-awaited fourteenth and final eight-thousander. Manaslu is characterized by bad weather. The ascent of Manaslu by the Carsolios had a serious setback at 200 meters (656 ft), from the summit; the climbers found that a strong storm was approaching from the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri. They calculated that the storm would arrive in a couple of hours, just when they were touching the mountaintop. The international media pressure was enormous, and Carlos never made an expedition so well prepared, equipped and funded. But to survive they made the right decision, to turn back. Fortunately the storm was not as high, at around 7,300 meters (23,950 ft). Although the brothers had to dig an ice cave for shelter.

After a week of recovery they tried again, and a few days later the Carsolios finally reached the summit. The objective was accomplished; Carlos Carsolio got his 14th eight-thousander. Headlines of the feat spread all around the world.[16]

Eight-thousanders climbed

Peak Year Notes
Nanga Parbat 1985
Shisha Pangma 1987
Makalu 1988 Solo; required emergency oxygen on descent
Mount Everest 1989
Kangchenjunga 1992 Solo
K2 1993
Cho Oyu 1994 Solo; summitted from base camp in 18 hours and 45 minutes, a world record
Lhotse 1994 Solo; another world record, achieved in 23 hours and 50 minutes
Broad Peak 1994 Solo, new route; fifth man ever to solo a new route on an eight-thousander
Annapurna 1995
Dhaulagiri 1995 Solo
Gasherbrum II 1995
Gasherbrum I 1995
Manaslu 1996

Notes

  • His innovating approach and his focus in the opening of new routes have placed him among the best mountaineers of all times.
  • He's also well known for his climbing achievements as well as being a leader of small and successful expeditions.[17]
  • Carsolio climbs in Alpine style, with no fixed ropes or supplementary oxygen.
  • Carsolio currently lives at Valle de Bravo, a small town located approximately 156 km (97 mi), southwest of Mexico City.
  • He is also a trained paraglider and a motivational speaker.[18]
  • During his climb of Kangchenjunga, he became the last person to see Wanda Rutkiewicz alive.
  • Due to his great physical strength his friend Jerzy Kukuczka gave him the nickname of The Mexican bull of the Himalayas.
  • He was married to Elsa Ávila who ascends to Mount Everest on May 5, 1999 by the southeast route. Elsa was the first Mexican and Latin American woman to accomplish the feat. They have two children, Karina and Santiago. Carlos divorced Elsa, remarried and had two more children, Camila and Kórel.[19]
  • His countrymen Andrés Delgado and Alfonso de la Parra, are officially missing in Changabang since May 2006. Carsolio collaborated in the search of his friends which was unsuccessful.[20][21]

References

  1. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2011-06-15. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link) (in Spanish).
  2. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2007-08-13. Retrieved 2014-01-15.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  3. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2008-09-17. Retrieved 2008-09-26.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  4. ^ http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/nangaparbat.shtml
  5. ^ Scott, Doug; Alex MacIntyre (2000 (reprint edition); original 1984). Shisha Pangma: The Alpine Style First Ascent of the South-West Face. Seattle, WA, USA: The Mountaineers Books. p. 305. ISBN 0-89886-723-1. Check date values in: |date= (help)
  6. ^ "Archived copy" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 2012-03-03. Retrieved 2014-01-22.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link) (in Spanish).
  7. ^ "Nepal 1988". The Alpine Journal. 94: 263. 1989–90.
  8. ^ ExplorersWeb (13 May 2005). "14 x 8000er correction: It's 5 - not 6 - without O2". Archived from the original on 2012-03-20. Retrieved 2011-03-16.
  9. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2008-05-18. Retrieved 2010-04-05.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  10. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2010-01-19. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  11. ^ http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/everestfatilities.shtml
  12. ^ http://www.adventurestats.com/tables/kangchenjunga.shtml
  13. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2015-05-24. Retrieved 2010-02-20.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  14. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2007-08-13. Retrieved 2014-01-15.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  15. ^ http://broadpeak.org/en/broad_peak.php
  16. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2011-07-27. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link) (in Spanish).
  17. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2010-06-07. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  18. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2009-12-12. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link)
  19. ^ http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/carsolio.htm
  20. ^ http://www.everestnews.com/2006expeditions/11082006.htm
  21. ^ "Archived copy". Archived from the original on 2011-07-22. Retrieved 2010-02-19.CS1 maint: Archived copy as title (link) (In Spanish).

See also

Broad Peak

Broad Peak (Urdu: بروڈ پیک‎) is the 12th highest mountain in the world at 8,047 metres (26,401 ft) above sea level. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Falchan Kangri is not used among the Balti people. The English name was introduced in 1892 by the British explorer Martin Conway, in reference to the similarly named Breithorn in the Alps.

Cho Oyu

Cho Oyu (Nepali: चोयु; Tibetan: ཇོ་བོ་དབུ་ཡ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at 8,188 metres (26,864 ft) above sea level. Cho Oyu means "Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the Khumbu sub-section of the Mahalangur Himalaya 20 km west of Mount Everest. The mountain stands on the China–Nepal border.

Just a few kilometres west of Cho Oyu is Nangpa La (5,716m/18,753 ft), a glaciated pass that serves as the main trading route between the Tibetans and the Khumbu's Sherpas. This pass separates the Khumbu and Rolwaling Himalayas. Due to its proximity to this pass and the generally moderate slopes of the standard northwest ridge route, Cho Oyu is considered the easiest 8,000 metre peak to climb. It is a popular objective for professionally guided parties.

Eight-thousander

The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation or UIAA recognise eight-thousanders as the 14 mountains that are more than 8,000 metres (26,247 ft) in height above sea level, and are considered to be sufficiently independent from neighbouring peaks. However, there is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and since 2012 the UIAA has been involved in a process to consider whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountains. All eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits are in the death zone.

The first person to summit all 14 eight-thousanders was Italian Reinhold Messner in 1986, who completed the feat without the aid of supplementary oxygen. In 2010, Spaniard Edurne Pasaban became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders, but with the aid of supplementary oxygen; in 2011 Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner became the first woman to summit all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplementary oxygen. From 1950–1964, all eight-thousanders were summited. As of May 2019, K2 remains the only eight-thousander not summited in a Winter ascent.

Kangchenjunga

Kangchenjunga, also spelled Kanchenjunga, is the third highest mountain in the world. It rises with an elevation of 8,586 m (28,169 ft) in a section of the Himalayas called Kangchenjunga Himal delimited in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak Chu and Jongsang La, and in the east by the Teesta River. It lies between Nepal and Sikkim, India, with three of the five peaks (Main, Central, and South) directly on the border, and the remaining two (West and Kangbachen) in Nepal's Taplejung District.Until 1852, Kangchenjunga was assumed to be the highest mountain in the world, but calculations based on various readings and measurements made by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India in 1849 came to the conclusion that Mount Everest, known as Peak XV at the time, was the highest. Allowing for further verification of all calculations, it was officially announced in 1856 that Kangchenjunga is the third highest mountain in the world.Kangchenjunga was first climbed on 25 May 1955 by Joe Brown and George Band, who were part of a British expedition. They stopped short of the summit in accordance with the promise given to the Chogyal that the top of the mountain would remain intact. Every climber or climbing group that has reached the summit has followed this tradition. Other members of this expedition included John Angelo Jackson and Tom Mackinon.

Lhotse

Lhotse (Nepali: ल्होत्से L'hōtsē [loːtsi]; Tibetan: ལྷོ་རྩེ, lho rtse) is the fourth highest mountain in the world at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft), after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. Part of the Everest massif, Lhotse is connected to the latter peak via the South Col. Lhotse means “South Peak” in Tibetan. In addition to the main summit at 8,516 metres (27,940 ft) above sea level, the mountain comprises the smaller peaks Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414 m (27,605 ft), and Lhotse Shar at 8,383 m (27,503 ft). The summit is on the border between Tibet of China and the Khumbu region of Nepal.

List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest

Mount Everest, at 8,848 metres (29,029 ft) is currently the world's highest mountain range and has now become a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. This is a list of people who reached the summit of Mount Everest in the 20th century. Overall about 1,383 people summited Everest between 1953 and the end of 2000. After 2000, the number of summiters greatly increased when ascending the mountain became more accessible and more popular. By 2013, 6,871 summits had been recorded by 4,042 different people.

List of Mexicans

This article contains a list of well-known Mexicans in science, publication, arts, politics and sports.

List of climbers and mountaineers

This list of climbers and mountaineers is a list of people notable for the activities of mountaineering, rock climbing (including bouldering) and ice climbing.

Manaslu

Manaslu (Nepali: मनास्लु, also known as Kutang) is the eighth highest mountain in the world at 8,163 metres (26,781 ft) above sea level. It is located in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in the west-central part of Nepal. Its name, which means "mountain of the spirit", comes from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956 by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".

Manaslu is the highest peak in the Gorkha District and is located about 64 km (40 mi) east of Annapurna. The mountain's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape, and is a dominant feature when viewed from afar.The Manaslu region offers a variety of trekking options. The popular Manaslu trekking route of 177 kilometres (110 mi) skirts the Manaslu massif over the pass down to Annapurna. The Nepalese Government only permitted trekking of this circuit in 1991. The trekking trail follows an ancient salt-trading route along the Burhi Gandak River. En route, 10 peaks over 6,500 metres (21,300 ft) are visible, including a few over 7,000 metres (23,000 ft). The highest point reached along the trek route is the Larkya La at an elevation of 5,106 metres (16,752 ft). As of May 2008, the mountain has been climbed 297 times with 53 fatalities.The Manaslu Conservation Area has been established with the primary objective of achieving conservation and sustainable management of the delimited area, which includes Manaslu.

Mount Everest

Mount Everest, known in Nepali as Sagarmatha (सगरमाथा), in Tibetan as Chomolungma (ཇོ་མོ་གླང་མ) and in Chinese as Zhumulangma (珠穆朗玛), is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The international border between Nepal (Province No. 1) and China (Tibet Autonomous Region) runs across its summit point.

The current official elevation of 8,848 m (29,029 ft), recognized by China and Nepal, was established by a 1955 Indian survey and subsequently confirmed by a Chinese survey in 1975. In 2005, China remeasured the rock height of the mountain, with a result of 8844.43 m (29,017 ft). There followed an argument between China and Nepal as to whether the official height should be the rock height (8,844 m, China) or the snow height (8,848 m, Nepal). In 2010, an agreement was reached by both sides that the height of Everest is 8,848 m, and Nepal recognizes China's claim that the rock height of Everest is 8,844 m.In 1865, Everest was given its official English name by the Royal Geographical Society, upon a recommendation by Andrew Waugh, the British Surveyor General of India. As there appeared to be several different local names, Waugh chose to name the mountain after his predecessor in the post, Sir George Everest, despite Everest's objections.Mount Everest attracts many climbers, some of them highly experienced mountaineers. There are two main climbing routes, one approaching the summit from the southeast in Nepal (known as the "standard route") and the other from the north in Tibet. While not posing substantial technical climbing challenges on the standard route, Everest presents dangers such as altitude sickness, weather, and wind, as well as significant hazards from avalanches and the Khumbu Icefall. As of 2017, nearly 300 people have died on Everest, many of whose bodies remain on the mountain.The first recorded efforts to reach Everest's summit were made by British mountaineers. As Nepal did not allow foreigners into the country at the time, the British made several attempts on the north ridge route from the Tibetan side. After the first reconnaissance expedition by the British in 1921 reached 7,000 m (22,970 ft) on the North Col, the 1922 expedition pushed the north ridge route up to 8,320 m (27,300 ft), marking the first time a human had climbed above 8,000 m (26,247 ft). Seven porters were killed in an avalanche on the descent from the North Col. The 1924 expedition resulted in one of the greatest mysteries on Everest to this day: George Mallory and Andrew Irvine made a final summit attempt on 8 June but never returned, sparking debate as to whether or not they were the first to reach the top. They had been spotted high on the mountain that day but disappeared in the clouds, never to be seen again, until Mallory's body was found in 1999 at 8,155 m (26,755 ft) on the north face. Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary made the first official ascent of Everest in 1953, using the southeast ridge route. Norgay had reached 8,595 m (28,199 ft) the previous year as a member of the 1952 Swiss expedition. The Chinese mountaineering team of Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua made the first reported ascent of the peak from the north ridge on 25 May 1960.

Nanga Parbat

Nanga Parbat (Urdu: نانگا پربت [naːŋɡaː pərbət̪]), locally known as Diamer (دیامر), is the ninth highest mountain in the world at 8,126 metres (26,660 ft) above sea level. Located in the Diamer District of Pakistan’s Gilgit Baltistan region, Nanga Parbat is the western anchor of the Himalayas. The name Nanga Parbat is derived from the Sanskrit words nagna and parvata which together mean "Naked Mountain". The mountain is locally known by its Tibetan name Diamer or Deo Mir, meaning "huge mountain".Nanga Parbat is one of the eight-thousanders. An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, Nanga Parbat is also a notoriously difficult climb. Numerous mountaineering deaths in the mid and early-20th century lent it the nickname "Killer Mountain.”

October 4

October 4 is the 277th day of the year (278th in leap years) in the Gregorian calendar. 88 days remain until the end of the year.

Red Bull X-Alps

The Red Bull X-Alps is a paragliding race in which athletes must hike or fly 1,000 km across the Alps. It first launched in 2003 and has since taken place every other year. Around 30 athletes take part and must navigate their way via a predetermined set of turn points that vary with each race. Every kilometer must be covered either on foot or by paraglider. Teams consist of one athlete and one official supporter, whose role it is to provide technical advice, mental and nutritional support.

The route traditionally covers the Alpine regions of Austria, Germany, Italy, Switzerland and France before ending in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, France. The 2017 route featured Slovenia as well.

Athletes don't fly into Monaco due to airspace restrictions, and the term "Monaco" is used solely for marketing purposes. The exact route is normally unveiled in the spring before the race start.

So far the race has only been won by Swiss nationals.

Shishapangma

Shishapangma, also called Gosainthān, is the 14th highest mountain in the world at 8,027 metres (26,335 ft) above sea level. It was the last 8,000 metre peak to be climbed, due to its location entirely within Tibet and the restrictions on visits by foreign travelers to the region imposed by authorities of the Government of China and of the Tibet Autonomous Region.

Stipe Božić

Stipe Božić (born 2 January 1951) is a Croatian mountaineer, documentary filmmaker, photographer and writer. He is the most successful Croatian Himalayan climber. Božić completed the Seven Summits and is the second European, after Reinhold Messner, to climb the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest, twice. He has directed more than 60 documentary films, mostly related to mountains and climbing.

Timeline of Mount Everest expeditions

Mount Everest is the world's highest mountain, with a peak at 8,848 metres (29,029 ft) above sea level. It is situated in the Himalayan range.

Tomaž Humar

Tomaž Humar (February 18, 1969 – c. November 10, 2009), nicknamed Gozdni Joža (akin to Hillbilly), was a Slovenian mountaineer. A father of two, Humar lived in Kamnik, Slovenia. He completed over 1500 ascents, and won a number of mountaineering and other awards, including the Piolet d'Or in 1996 for his Ama Dablam ascent.He became widely recognized in 1999 after his famous solo ascent of the south face of Dhaulagiri, considered one of the deadliest routes in the Himalayas with a 40% fatality rate.During a solo attempt to climb Nanga Parbat in 2005, Humar became trapped by avalanches and melting snow at an altitude of nearly 6000 meters. After six days in a snow cave he was rescued by a Pakistan Army helicopter crew on August 10, 2005: Lieutenant Colonel Rashid Ulah Baig and Major Khalid Amir Rana.On October 28, 2007, Humar reached the Eastern summit of Annapurna I (8091 m) via a route at the far eastern end of the South Face.On November 9, 2009, Humar, who was on a solo climb via the South Face of Langtang Lirung (last climbed in 1995), had an accident during the descent. His only contact with the base camp staff via a satellite phone was made on the day of the accident and he appeared to be in critical condition with leg, spine and rib injuries. He was stuck on the mountain at an elevation of approximately 6,300 meters for several days before his body was found on November 14, 2009 at an elevation of 5,600 meters.

Wanda Rutkiewicz

Wanda Rutkiewicz Polish pronunciation: [/ˈvanda rutˈkievitʂ/] (February 4, 1943 – May 12–13, 1992) was a Polish computer engineer and mountain climber. She was the first woman to successfully summit K2.

Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich

Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich (21 July 1937 in Łbowo, central Poland – 27 May 1989 in Mount Everest) was a Polish mountaineer. He died in an avalanche on the northwest slopes of Mount Everest in 1989.

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